Stok Kangri Trek Blog | Touching the sky @20182 ft

I was in Ladakh in Feb 2016 for frozen river trek / Chadar Trek thats when i found out about Stok Kangri trek. Its 20,000 ft of glory – mostly a non-technical trek. Stok Kangri trek blog also happens to be the first blog i have ever written on TheFreeBird and since then my writing style has changed a lot. In this blog you will find detailed story of Stok Kangri. Its a bit lengthy so grab a cold coffee and enjoy the ride. 

Skip Trek Prologue &Acclimatisation & go directly to the trek

Stok Kangri Prologue

Damn, I was bored in office !!!!!
Who isn’t ????
I did what I always do – think of wonderful things I could do outside office .
Thinking about that Mt. Everest dream of mine ( All fired up, but still Rs. 45 Lakh short ) .

Suddenly an idea pops in my mind of visiting the dreamy land of Himalayas once again.( Completed Chadar trek in 2016 Feb).

At the top of my mind are few options Rupin Pass, Pin Parvathi & Stok Kangri trek. 20,182 ft of sheer height & beautiful peaks make me decide for Stok Kangri 🙂

So now I need to get a plan in place as quickly as possible since its June now (and the stok season is only for July-Aug i.e. when there is more likelihood of snow)

For a holiday you require two things
a) Location –Check
b) Leaves – Hmmmmm……Enter Mission Manager…

MISSION MANAGER

The trek still hangs in the air (Have typed till this before getting my leaves approved).

1.Dropping the hint to the manager: Flights: To & Fro cost 18K
I was present at Manager’s desk discussing User stories of a module. Another colleague happened to enter her cabin to ask for leaves to visit his hometown . I just joked if I could join him. Manager yelled as if i threw a cockroach on her . And I quote verbatim, “ You have just been back from a big leave , now you wont get leaves for like forever”

2.Setting up for the leaves request: Flights: To & Fro cost 19K
I am the most optimist person you will ever meet . If I was a transformer I would be “ OPTIMIST PRIME” .
I did my basic research and finalized three groups (decided against going solo since it would prove to be costly).Decided on dates as July End (to be finalized, if and when the leaves get approved). Waiting for the proper time to pitch manager. Not a good week , Not a proper time for pitching….week passes by.

3.Judgement Day (High time to ask for leaves): .Flights: To & Fro cost 20K
Manager pretty busy till Thursday. Friday was to be the judgement day. For the first four days did my research on things to do , probable groups, points to & fro to going solo and stuff…
Manager doesn’t show up. Against all my good senses decided to watsapp her . And I quote “ Need few leaves for next month , have to plan an outing”. Curt reply followed after a grueling wait “ Will discuss On Monday”

4.Judgement Day 2 (Monday): Flights: To & Fro cost 20K +
Good Timing: Check
Guts: Getting there. After googling pics, reading thro blogs. Guts check.
Me: “ Hello Mrs. XYZ, I need few leaves in the next month”
XYZ: “ How many”
Me:” 5 Days”
XYZ: “Ok , as long I dont have to do any work on your behalf “
Me: (Mind : that’s it ??????? Really !!!!!) “All my work is upto date. No arears”
XYZ: “Ok”
Me: “OK, will let you know the exact dates as and when I book” …….Giggling like a child being given a chocolate.

5.The Haggle 🙂  Flights: To & Fro cost 22K +
Groups checked , mails dropped ,quotations asked and vacant batches info received. Permutations & combination of dates available for different groups vis-à-vis their costs vis-à-vis the flight costs in progress. Brain going bonkers. Finally decided on a group & the dates.

Problem: Need to add another day of acclimatization for better chances
Issue : Need to get another day of leave approved.
Another round of world war 3 with manager ensued. Pro’s & cons exchanged between the two parties.
Promises asked .Promises Given. Matter settled.

6.Dates checked: 23 July -31 July . Flights: To & Fro cost 23K

Wondering whether 23K of flight is worth it.
Heart beats increasing.
Brain is getting shot at by all sorts of arguments.
Does this trek justify the cost.

When in doubt google. Few searches, few pics , few blogs later …..
F*** This S*** ,YOLO .

Tickets booked. Trek price paid. 40K Burned.


Stamina Check

Excited, but waiting patiently for the last 30 days. Time to check up on that stamina.

PAST Karate black belt , An avid Sahyadri trekker ( Done some 40 odd treks ). Regular GymShark
PRESENT Had an injury 8 months back, stopped gym ….but then continued with treks , need to get back to regular gym schedule.

THE ONE MONTH PLAN

5 days a week gym plan:
– 2 days cardio
– 3 days weight training two muscles a day (chest + triceps; back+ bisceps; shoulder+ legs)
– Satuday/Sunday : Rest or a stroll to a near by hill

AIM: “To get as fit as possible”

22 JUNE Day One :
cardio : 20 minutes treadmill 2.5 Km, 10 minutes elliptical at high resistance, 25 jor ,25 push ups

23 JUNE Day Two:
legs: squats: 25 reps ( 2 sets) weighted squats : 25 reps ( 2 sets – 5 kg)
lounges : 15 reps ( 2 sets) leg extension : 15 reps ( 3 sets)
leg curls : 15 reps ( 3 sets)

24 JUNE Day 3 overslept due to chilly conditions , day 4 -5 off

27 June Day 6- Killed chest and triceps today

28 JUNE day 7- Cardio: 20 minutes treadmill 2.8Km, 10 minutes elliptical,20 jor . crunches

29 JUNE day 8 –shoulder and legs :
squats: 50 reps ( 1 sets) weighted squats : 20 & 15 reps ( 2 sets – 5 kg)
lounges : nill leg extension : 15 reps ( 3 sets)
leg curls : 15 reps ( 3 sets) calves- 2 sets
Totally killed the legs. When I walk I feel like I am jello zombie waddling my way through life 😀

30 JUNE day 9
Legs are aching . Thinking of doing some basic cardio, but once I start running on the treadmill I get back on ROCKY mode.
Cardio: 20 minutes 2.9Km; treadmill 10 minutes at endurance level 12-13 out of the max 20 ( hardly anyone in the gym goin above 7-8 endurance)

1 JULY Day 10 Back & Biceps

2,3 Weekend rest

4 JULY – had lower back pain , rest

5 July –Tuesday did chest and biceps, instead of trisceps probably got carried away at the site of a beautiful gal in the gym

6 July- Cardio 20 minutes 2.9Km; treadmill 10 minutes at endurance level 12-13 out of the max 20

7 July- back & trisceps , since I forgetfully had biceps day two days back

8 July – Cardio 20 minutes 2.9Km; treadmill 10 minutes at endurance level 12-13 out of the max 20
No legs training this week as I was planning a trek on the weekend and did not want to feel numb legs on the hills

9-10 July – Sahyadri trek – Ramshej & deher gad. Check out my blog on the same. Too muh rain, it was almost flooding in Nashik . Rainproof clothes my ass , I was wet through the day. As a result didn’t go to gym on Monday

11 July Monday- NO GYM , woke up at 9

12 July Tuesday – NO GYM, had sore throat with hints of cold

13 July Wednesday- Hopefully the medicines will do the trick.
No exercise till the D day since not feeling well. Two week without any sort of exercise.


Over the last few months apart from increasing my stamina I tried to get all the things required for trek. Read about the Things to carry for Stok Kangri HERE

All set for the trek. Next  day I flew to Leh.


22 July 2016 – Acclimatisation Day 1- Fly away on my Zephyr

The flight to Leh is at 04:00 am .Reached Mumbai airport at around midnight.

Travel motivation:

Met a Slovakian guy ( Norbert Kiss) and a Chinese guy ( Fenni ) at the Mumbai Airport. Fenni had been to EBC 5 times , it was his probably 8 th trip to Ladakh.
Norbert on the other hand was a Landscape Manager, 37 yrs -self employed. He tavels when he feels like !! The perks of being an entrepreneur. His passport had stamps from Cambodia,Japan, Singapore, Thailand, India, Europe, Costa-rica and plans to add more In the coming days. He had taken 6 big holidays this year, each lasting 3-4 weeks i.e. He has almost travelled through the year. He plans to go around Leh till 10th of August. We exchanged our contact details to go around together for atleast the first three days when I was available. For the lack of network on our mobiles in Leh the plan didn’t materialize.

– The airport always gives me sleepless nights. Didn’t sleep at all. The flight was on time. At around 5 am the view from the plane was mind boggling.I was in heaven.

Stok Kangri -To Leh From Flight
Stok Kangri -To Leh From Flight

Stok Kangri Trek Blog | Acclimatistaion Day 1 LEH Arrival

Leh Airport is very beautiful surrounded by mountains. I was here 5 months back in the middle of winter for Chadar trek. That time it was -10 degrees. Compared to that it was pleasant in July. Had a sleepless night & flight hence decided to rest till evening in my hotel room

Acclimatisation is a bitch !

 After about half an hour, I woke up with a strange feeling in my tummy. I got up and headed towards the washroom. The washroom was 3-4 steps from the bed.1 step in I started to feel a bit powerless,2nd step and I had a worsened urge of vomiting with a sharp pain in my tummy. Another step and I felt that someone had unplugged my batteries. I had collapsed on the floor sweating profusely.In my mind , “I am a rockstar this can’t be happening to me”.

After few powerless moments, I garnered some energy to sit up on the bed with my hands against my head. I remembered the words I had read before I came here
Drink lots of water, Eat dry fruits, energy bars, sleep properly
Over the night I had not followed a single rule. Soon enough I had an energy bar, sandwich, a litre of water mixed with ORS. Felt good after a while.

Slept through the afternoon. Felt hungry after waking up. To my dismay the hotel didn’t have a working kitchen. Had to head to the market in search of food. The blackout incident was still fresh in my mind. Garnered enough courage and self-motivation and headed to the market. After walking a few 100m my confidence level increased drastically. I decided to take it easy on my stomach and hence decided to have normal yellow daal –rice. I searched the entire old market / Tibetan market for that elusive dal/rice, didn’t find it. Had to settle for an alu paratha. Back to the room. Had a 2 hr nap. By evening I felt much better.

With the improved acclimatization level decided to go to the Leh palace in the evening with another trekker Hardik.

Stok Kangri - Leh palace
Stok Kangri – Leh palace

Still had doubts regarding acclimatization and how my body would hold up to this climb, palace was at a sleight height. After few conscious steps with mind focused on not stressing my body, we were on the way to the palace.

Stok Kangri- Leh palace
Stok Kangri- Leh palace

It was late in the evening and were the probably the last people allowed inside. After the short trek, came back to the room and soon enough headed to the market for dinner at about 21:00 hrs. Doubts regarding acclimatization were now firmly buried. The elusive search of daal-rice continued. Had to settle for rice and veg alu mutter gravy.

I thought of the times when I had taken the dal – rice for granted through the years . Moved around in the market enjoying the light from the glass shops and the soothing wind whistling past the bylanes. 

Found this differently named shop 😀

Leh Shops

Found a café, Rendezvous Café bustling with foreigners. Had hot chocolate. Felt superb. Went back to the room, slept off at 2300 hrs

Travel full time

The most common question that i get asked is I want to travel a lot but I dont have leaves. I think I am wasting my life in a cubicle. Should I quit my job ? For years I have suggested to not quit anything unless you have another source of income. In search of this source of income I tried freelancing , trek leading, vlogging and I realised nothing works in the long term - untill I came across trading.

This is perfect fit for a traveller mindset. You can trade from anywhere around the world be it some off the grid village in Himachal or Meghalaya, be it some camping spot from Sahyadris. All you need is an internet connection and a trading account. You can earn by trading for 1-2 hrs a day and would have freedom to do anything in the free time.Or you might have just earned enough in a day to take the month off travelling around the world

As with anything in life many have suceeded & many have failed as well. Its not easy , but if sucessfull this has enormous wealth creation potential to make all your dreams come true. Hence its worth a shot. I would suggest you get a feel for it and take it up as a side project for 6 months to see if you have patience & intellect to learn it.

Learn trading for freedom

Acclimatisation Day 2Stok Kangri Trek Blog |  Getting used to Leh

Woke up at 0200 hrs for no reason. Intermittent Sleep. I hate acclimatization !! Tried to sleep again woke up hungry at 0330 hrs. Had a chocolate, felt even more lively now. Saw Leh palace in moonlight. It really looked out of the Harry Potter World. Its 0430 hrs ,wide awake, decided to lay back and think about nothing. Slept for another hour. Was up till 0630 hrs. Slept again. Had a good 3 hrs sleep.

Woke up with our third trek mate knocking on the door. Karthik Reddy had just landed from Houston. He decided to rest for half the day owing to his sleepless flight. Hardik and me headed to famous Gesmo Hotel for brunch. Playing it safe: Alu paratha and Fruit Juice. Headed to shanti stupa for todays acclimatization walk.

Steps of shanti stupa , leh
Steps of shanti stupa , leh

The steps looked normal, but climbing them was a huge task. Apart from elevated heart beat, the climb was completed without any hiccup.Finally reached the top at the Shanti Stupa

Shanti Stupa, leh
Shanti Stupa, leh

Later that evening went for another acclimatization walk to the castle of Tsemo. It was late in the evening, but we still made a dash to enjoy the City view in the evening

Castle Tsemo, Leh
Castle Tsemo, Leh

Apart from elevated heart beat, the climb was completed without any hiccup.The view from the top was really beautiful. Climbed a bit forward to a higher place where lots of prayer flags were tied together. Leh with Stok Kangri in the background looked brilliant from here. Even the dog had its eyes set on Stok Kangri

Castle Tsemo
Castle Tsemo

At night headed to another famous food joint, Lamayuru Hotel where I had the elusive Dal-rice. Two days in and I still had not had non-veg, felt bad on so many levels, still had to be strict to prevent any stomach mishaps.

Day 3 | Last Acclimatisation Day | Stok Kangri Trek

Woke up at 0300, was up till 0430, woke up at 0630 again. Getting bored of this sleep deprived state. I hate acclimatization !!

Met our guides in the morning who broke the news that we 3 wont be the only ones trekking , but few other trekkers from other organsiers would be joining us. The group strength increased from 3 to 21 all of a sudden. Felt a bit mad at the organisers, but then again I would be making new friends, whole lot of them. After introductions and briefing the 3 of us headed for brunch and then hotel room.

All of us felt a bit lazy on the last acclimatization afternoon and decided to get acclimatized with our beds. I couldn’t sleep, so watched a movie instead Kung Fu Panda. Kartik and Hardik also joined me in the movie. Who can resist the Panda. The golden words resonated in my head ,There is no secret ingredient,  Its You”. These words kept me in high spirits during the trek. Next , while we were surfing the channels, found VERTICAL LIMIT- the movie on one. This would provide the exact motivation required to conquer Stok Kangri. Looked out of the window towards the formidable nemesis

Stok Kangri Bird's eye
Stok Kangri Bird’s eye

In the evening went for budget shopping. Super Market is the place to be to get cheap items. This is a shopping complex consisting of atleast 5-6 shops where we get cheaper goods. If you are walking on the main lane of the old market towards the stok kangri mountain and away from the main majjid , this complex would be at the right side of the road. There would be a small gap in the row of buildings with a small title Super market.If you are not careful enough , you would miss this easily.

Bought
•Walking Stick: Rs 500
•Gaiter: Rs 450
•Woolen Cap/ Beanie cap: Rs 200

Wondered around the market to buy some souvenirs .
•Tarchok/ Prayer Flags ( medium size 6 piece for Rs 200)
•Pashmina Silk Stole( 2 piece for Rs 550).

Celebrated the last day in Leh before the trek with a sumptuous & scrumptious dinner. Reached Rendezvous café ( it is the opposite of the road where the old market starts). Ordered Tangy Pasta, A exotically named pizza, and plain old Veg pulav. The food was good & filling. Had lots of dry fruits in the pulav. We were full, still ordered another tasty looking chocochip pie. Couldn’t finish it .Still regret it . Chocolate should never be disrespected.
Went to the room . slept off.

The next day the actual trek starts.

END OF PART 1

Over the next days we gain height to reach subsequent camps at Chang Ma 3988m, Mankorma 4328m, Base Camp 4900m & Summit 6153m

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Click to read about the next part at Chang Ma Camp 3988m – first camp for Stok Kangri

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46 thoughts on “Stok Kangri Trek Blog – I was breathless at @20182 ft”

  1. Awesome Niraj! Sounds like a great experience. And knowing how tough you are, this sounds way too tough for folks like me.

    1. Hey Swati, it’s a brilliant trek.
      Its a difficult trek owing to the lack of oxygen.
      Real test of your mettle.

      YOu can definitely try with the a fit body and motivated mind. 🙂

    1. Sup Susan,

      Good to see your interest.
      I hope to put up your Roopkund trek soon 😛 😀

      1. Hello Free Bird!
        I would like to know how is it like for a smoker to attempt this trek?

        Thanks

        1. Hey Aakarsh,

          First i would like to say that NEVER EVER has smoking done anyone any good.

          Breathing is always a problem at high altitude for a healthy person. Smoking can only make it worse.
          I would recommend that if any smoker wants to sucessfully summit this 20000ft monster, its better to stop smoking all together atleast two months before the trek

  2. Great account. Planning to do this summer 2017.
    Who was your outfitter and would you recommend them or key things to ask while negotiating a guide/outfitter? and how much did it cost?

    1. Hello Vikas,
      The things you would like to check before confirming any organiser is
      1) whether they would be organising it themselves or sub-contracting.
      2) what would be the batch size of the trek . Smaller the group , merrier the trek.
      3) I had selected an organiser who had sub contracted to the local guys.
      4) Also need to check on the expenditures incurred if one decides to return back from the trek in between.These costs are mostly not mentioend anywhere on any organisers site

      You can go ahead with any trusted organisation. However i believe that the real fun in doing such a trek is with the local agencies.

      Once u book the seat, just get your stamina to the mark & carry lots of dry fruits with you. Drink plenty of water

      Hope this is useful.
      Cheers

  3. Outstanding description of the trek..!!! Congratulations..!!! Brought back memories of my stok kangri trek..
    Can you share the name of treking agency that you in this case.

    1. So glad you could relive your glory moments. The batch size of only 3 people turned up for our organiser , hence our group was merged with a bigger group from local organiser. To mention there name would be unfair given the small size of our group. what happens on the trek stays within the trek 😛

  4. This is very interesting, You’re a very skilled blogger.
    I’ve joined your feed and look forward to seeking more of your
    magnificent post. Also, I’ve shared your website in my social
    networks!

  5. thats one hell of a description of the stok kangri trek. It was like a virtual tour for me..pretty insightful and informative…I am planning for stok kangri summit in august 2017. wish me luck TheFreeBird. 🙂
    Any more Bro (not literally :P) Tips would be highly appreciated. TIA…

    1. Sorry for the delayed response, i was out of network reach (in Goa and loving it).
      I really appreciate your comments. The sleepless nights does help you jot down the nuances of the trek.

      I have tried to put in all tips i could personally think of.
      Just stay mentally strong, carry enough quick energy food & lots of water. Try to get as much sleep as possible on summit rest day.
      May the force be with you. Godspeed. \m/

  6. Heyy Freebird,I am planning Stok Kangri trek this year. Your blog is most helpful so far!!
    Had few questions
    1)Was walking stick was really helpful throughout the trek?
    2)If I am not wrong 8 of 23 people summitted. So what were the preparations done by other members who completed trek with much ease?

    1. Thanks for your kind words.Sorry for the late reply, was on the move.
      1)The height does take a toll on your body/stamina. You can breeze past the first two camps without the need of a walking stick. However after that at the last part of reaching the base camp and then onwards to the summit the walking stick does come in very handy. Not necessarily as an aid for walking , but as an extra support for your tired body. During the glacial climb , it is of utmost importance.
      2)No one completed the trek with ease. Every one had to put in lot of efforts. A fit body and a strong mind is very much a necessity.

  7. I really like your blog.. very nice pics. Did you create this website yourself or did you hire someone to do it for you ? kudos

  8. Superb blog, the incessant headache, heavy backpack and early morning ascend reminds of my trek to roopkund.!! Stok-Kangri has been on my mind for quite some time now….your blog just gave it a push!!

  9. I loved n inspired by ur blog…awesme.

    Wish to be a mountaineer nd nature lvr.
    Lyk as u😊😊

  10. Many thanks for an awesome blog…. definitely motivated me. I’ve booked to do the trek in August this year, so looking forward to it. My highest altitude climb was Everest Base. Regards from South africa

    1. Thanks a lot Sushie for your kind words. Having done EBC trek, I am confident that you will summit Stok Kangri pretty easily.
      Best Of Luck \m/

  11. Awesome blog buddy. Felt as if I was along with you all the way in the trek. Kudos to your NIMAS vlog as well, which is what brought me here. Looking forward to more such blogs and vlogs. Cheers.

  12. Hi!

    Lovely blog with tons of info.

    Pls can you advise if we will need crampons for our Stok Kangri trek in July end?

    Thanks!

    1. Hey Anand,
      Thanks a lots for your kind words. You will require crampons from the glacier.
      Cheers

    1. Hello Gan,
      Thanks for your kind words. It was good to read about your experience too.

      Keep Climbing,
      Cheers

  13. I HAVE DONE 3 TREKS IN PAST 10 YEARS BACK IN HIMALAYA RANGES (PABBAR VALLEY, PANCHACHULI &PUNWALI BUGYAL). I M GOING FOR STOK KANGARI TREK THIS JULY AND ONLY WORRY FOR MY SINUS PROBLEM . I M TRYING TO DO ALL REMEDIES FOR IT. I HAVE CHECK MY FITNESS LEVEL NOT THAT BAD CAN RUN ON TREDMILL FOR 20 MIN COVERING 3 KM. CAN DO CRUNCHES 3SET OF 15 REP . WEIGHT SQAUTS TOTAL WEIGHT UPTO 25 2 SET 8-9 REP AND WITH LESSER WAIT AROUNF 10 -15 4-5 SETS OF 10-12 REP . FOLLOW OTHER GROUP EXERCISE REGULARLY. NEED YOUR SUGGESTION I M WORREID AS I M GETTING ON TREK AFTER 10YEARS AND THIS COLD COUGH SINUS ISSUE.

    1. Hello Ashish,
      Sorry for the late reply, I was out on a trek.i think you are on the right path towards fitness.
      For the breathing part I suggest you immediately start with yoga – anulom vinulom and omkara. You might want to add other breathing exercises as well.

      To combat breathing issues, you can add climbing floors to your training regime. Start with a 10 kilo backpack for 5 floors and gradually increase resistance.
      Hope that helps.
      Cheers

  14. बहुत ही सुंदर वर्णन । आपकी हिम्मत और मनोबल को सलाम 👏

  15. In response to Stok Kangri’s rapid degradation, the Stok Village Committee and ALTOA (All Ladakh Tour Operators’ Association) have announced a three-year ban on trekking and climbing on Stok Kangri peak. Stok Kangri will remain closed from 2020 to 2022

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