TheFreeBird
Stok Kangri Trek Blog
Trek Day 2 | Chang Ma to Mankorma camp | 3.5kms | 3988m to 4328m
Without much sleep, the day started early for me. After chomping on some dry fruits I walked atleast a km to a get some fresh air and some untouched nature in my sight. After some stretching exercises I came back to the camp feeling fresh. People were just waking up. How can they sleep so much?
Some guys complained about the tent being pitched on a slight slope which didnt allow them to sleep properly. Point taken.
Breakfast followed. Rucksacks packed. Tents folded.
We started towards our second campsite, Mankorma camp . The elevation difference would be from 3988m to 4328m. The elevation would be achieved by walking 3.5 kms. I hoped that acclimatization wont hit me in the face.
The trek starts on the same acclimatisation hill we went yesterday. Only this time around we are carrying huge ass backpacks. I still rue the fact that mine is the heaviest. No lessons learned from any treks.
The acclimatisation hill was completed with a little efforts. We were fairly acclimatised. Godzilla rocks looked a bit different in the sunlight
After the hill was done, the walk ahead was a straight forward till the Mankorma campsite.
Demotivation: On the way we did see a guy being taken back on a horse/mule. Another guy was being made to descend with his guide tagging him along. He had partially lost his vision.
Motivation: A elderly guy had come back again to Stok Kangri after nearly two decades with his grand-daughter.
A short break before we reach the Mankorma campsite.
On reaching the campsite, the climate changed suddenly as it started to pour. We waited for the rain to pass sipping on hot tea inside the Mankorma cafe ( permanent tent)
Once the rain god acknowledged , we set up our tents.
Some people were stood up because their mule bags had not reached. Some reward for carrying your own bag. 🙂
Soon enough we had lunch.
NEMESIS
After lunch I showed first signs of AMS, i felt a mild headache – what would prove to be my arch nemesis throughout the remaining trek.
It was irritating to say the least. Since i had a sore throat, i refrained from drinking the cold water. Without much water in my system, the effect was aggravated. Realising this i started drinking loads of water like a camel. The headache refused to budge.
BRO TIP
Always carry hot water from camps in one thermas type of bottle to mix it with cold water to have normal temperature drinking water throughout
I asked the guides and the doctor for some solution. Dr. suggested paracetamol, guides said wait it out and don’t keep your ears covered( All along my life i have been told to keep my ears covered in winter to prevent cold,cough. And here the guides suggested against. My whole life was a lie).
I didn’t opt for the medicines. I was tired of drinking water, hence tried some soup ( Rs 80 at the Mankorma cafe). Decided to do an Ayurvedic attack on my headache. Yoga.
I did few yoga exercises i knew for an hour atleast:
• Omkar (Taking deep breathes and saying out “Om” aloud
• Anulom-vilom (Breathing in from one nostril, while other nostril is closed and then closing the first and breathing out from the second)
• Kapal-Bhati (Breathing out continuosly )
• All of this while in Padmasan ( sitting with legs crossed one over the other).
I felt like a fool doing this. But then whatever it takes to get rid of the headache.
After all the efforts the headache slowly vanished. I don’t know what clicked – the plenty of water, the soup, the yoga or my body just got used to it. But i don’t care. I felt better.
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The day proceeded: discussions , rest, tea, acclimatisation walk. On the acclimatisation walk i was wondering whether the headache would make a comeback. It didn’t. Toshi, one of our guide found a mountain goat skull.
We also got the first glimpse of the Mamoots- they looked like soft cuddle toys. After the walk, we had soup & the moment of truth. The oxymeter test.Scored 82. The test was cleared.
The lights started to dim as the evening set in . Stok Kangri looked beautiful in the dying lights of the evening
After a quick dinner went to sleep. Got 6-7 hrs of sleep. The best sleep i had got in days.
On the next day we trekked to the Stok Kangri Base camp 4900m. Click to read
Good one man…
Thnx man
Awesome Niraj! Sounds like a great experience. And knowing how tough you are, this sounds way too tough for folks like me.
Hey Swati, it’s a brilliant trek.
Its a difficult trek owing to the lack of oxygen.
Real test of your mettle.
YOu can definitely try with the a fit body and motivated mind. 🙂
Loved it! Hope to be able to add my own spin to your story soon! 🙂
Sup Susan,
Good to see your interest.
I hope to put up your Roopkund trek soon 😛 😀
you’re really a good blogger. you’ve done a wonderful job about this tough trek!
Thnx a lot Shelly.
Hope this provides you good insight
Hello Free Bird!
I would like to know how is it like for a smoker to attempt this trek?
Thanks
Hey Aakarsh,
First i would like to say that NEVER EVER has smoking done anyone any good.
Breathing is always a problem at high altitude for a healthy person. Smoking can only make it worse.
I would recommend that if any smoker wants to sucessfully summit this 20000ft monster, its better to stop smoking all together atleast two months before the trek
The sun shines, the wind speaks and the bird is off to another adventure..
Hope u enjoyed the blog NiTiN 🙂
Awesome bro … Keep it up 🙂
thnx man
Great account. Planning to do this summer 2017.
Who was your outfitter and would you recommend them or key things to ask while negotiating a guide/outfitter? and how much did it cost?
Hello Vikas,
The things you would like to check before confirming any organiser is
1) whether they would be organising it themselves or sub-contracting.
2) what would be the batch size of the trek . Smaller the group , merrier the trek.
3) I had selected an organiser who had sub contracted to the local guys.
4) Also need to check on the expenditures incurred if one decides to return back from the trek in between.These costs are mostly not mentioend anywhere on any organisers site
You can go ahead with any trusted organisation. However i believe that the real fun in doing such a trek is with the local agencies.
Once u book the seat, just get your stamina to the mark & carry lots of dry fruits with you. Drink plenty of water
Hope this is useful.
Cheers
Outstanding description of the trek..!!! Congratulations..!!! Brought back memories of my stok kangri trek..
Can you share the name of treking agency that you in this case.
So glad you could relive your glory moments. The batch size of only 3 people turned up for our organiser , hence our group was merged with a bigger group from local organiser. To mention there name would be unfair given the small size of our group. what happens on the trek stays within the trek 😛
This is very interesting, You’re a very skilled blogger.
I’ve joined your feed and look forward to seeking more of your
magnificent post. Also, I’ve shared your website in my social
networks!
thats one hell of a description of the stok kangri trek. It was like a virtual tour for me..pretty insightful and informative…I am planning for stok kangri summit in august 2017. wish me luck TheFreeBird. 🙂
Any more Bro (not literally :P) Tips would be highly appreciated. TIA…
Sorry for the delayed response, i was out of network reach (in Goa and loving it).
I really appreciate your comments. The sleepless nights does help you jot down the nuances of the trek.
I have tried to put in all tips i could personally think of.
Just stay mentally strong, carry enough quick energy food & lots of water. Try to get as much sleep as possible on summit rest day.
May the force be with you. Godspeed. \m/
Heyy Freebird,I am planning Stok Kangri trek this year. Your blog is most helpful so far!!
Had few questions
1)Was walking stick was really helpful throughout the trek?
2)If I am not wrong 8 of 23 people summitted. So what were the preparations done by other members who completed trek with much ease?
Thanks for your kind words.Sorry for the late reply, was on the move.
1)The height does take a toll on your body/stamina. You can breeze past the first two camps without the need of a walking stick. However after that at the last part of reaching the base camp and then onwards to the summit the walking stick does come in very handy. Not necessarily as an aid for walking , but as an extra support for your tired body. During the glacial climb , it is of utmost importance.
2)No one completed the trek with ease. Every one had to put in lot of efforts. A fit body and a strong mind is very much a necessity.
With thanks, Plenty of advice.
I really like your blog.. very nice pics. Did you create this website yourself or did you hire someone to do it for you ? kudos
Thanks for your kind words. i did create it my self
Superb blog, the incessant headache, heavy backpack and early morning ascend reminds of my trek to roopkund.!! Stok-Kangri has been on my mind for quite some time now….your blog just gave it a push!!
Thnx Devyani. Go summit. Best of Luck \m/
I loved n inspired by ur blog…awesme.
Wish to be a mountaineer nd nature lvr.
Lyk as u😊😊
Thanks Dinesh for the kind words 🙂
Many thanks for an awesome blog…. definitely motivated me. I’ve booked to do the trek in August this year, so looking forward to it. My highest altitude climb was Everest Base. Regards from South africa
Thanks a lot Sushie for your kind words. Having done EBC trek, I am confident that you will summit Stok Kangri pretty easily.
Best Of Luck \m/
Awesome blog buddy. Felt as if I was along with you all the way in the trek. Kudos to your NIMAS vlog as well, which is what brought me here. Looking forward to more such blogs and vlogs. Cheers.
Thanks Dhairya for such motivating words \m/
Hopefully the adventures will continue.
Hi!
Lovely blog with tons of info.
Pls can you advise if we will need crampons for our Stok Kangri trek in July end?
Thanks!
Hey Anand,
Thanks a lots for your kind words. You will require crampons from the glacier.
Cheers
Hey,
Nice pictures and details.
I also did it and it was amazing!
Hello Gan,
Thanks for your kind words. It was good to read about your experience too.
Keep Climbing,
Cheers
I HAVE DONE 3 TREKS IN PAST 10 YEARS BACK IN HIMALAYA RANGES (PABBAR VALLEY, PANCHACHULI &PUNWALI BUGYAL). I M GOING FOR STOK KANGARI TREK THIS JULY AND ONLY WORRY FOR MY SINUS PROBLEM . I M TRYING TO DO ALL REMEDIES FOR IT. I HAVE CHECK MY FITNESS LEVEL NOT THAT BAD CAN RUN ON TREDMILL FOR 20 MIN COVERING 3 KM. CAN DO CRUNCHES 3SET OF 15 REP . WEIGHT SQAUTS TOTAL WEIGHT UPTO 25 2 SET 8-9 REP AND WITH LESSER WAIT AROUNF 10 -15 4-5 SETS OF 10-12 REP . FOLLOW OTHER GROUP EXERCISE REGULARLY. NEED YOUR SUGGESTION I M WORREID AS I M GETTING ON TREK AFTER 10YEARS AND THIS COLD COUGH SINUS ISSUE.
Hello Ashish,
Sorry for the late reply, I was out on a trek.i think you are on the right path towards fitness.
For the breathing part I suggest you immediately start with yoga – anulom vinulom and omkara. You might want to add other breathing exercises as well.
To combat breathing issues, you can add climbing floors to your training regime. Start with a 10 kilo backpack for 5 floors and gradually increase resistance.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
thank you bro
Awesome dude… Reminds me of my time in first week of August 2017. Julay!!!
Thanks man. Glad it bought back memories. Keep exploring. Cheers 🙂
बहुत ही सुंदर वर्णन । आपकी हिम्मत और मनोबल को सलाम 👏
Thanks Pragna 🙂
In response to Stok Kangri’s rapid degradation, the Stok Village Committee and ALTOA (All Ladakh Tour Operators’ Association) have announced a three-year ban on trekking and climbing on Stok Kangri peak. Stok Kangri will remain closed from 2020 to 2022